Pattern cutting- 7

Giles Deacon A/W 2007- The Troubadour 

 
The pattern

Today we finished off our 60's style dress (thank god) and have been given a new live brief- what is a live brief? I had no idea before hand as well, and basically its a brief that is online and its competition! 

The brief is a dress pattern that Giles Deacon the British fashion designer has put online on Showstudios.com for you to download and create your own version of his garment that he used in 2007 for his A/W collection. You can adapt the pattern to how you want it and you can use whatever fabrics take your fancy and you can be as innovative as possible. Once you have manufactured the dress you then have to then publish it online and wait to see who's the winner! Giles and his team will pick a garment to then feature in an exclusive fashion film!!!!

So today consisted off printing out all the information for this brief and sticking the pattern pieces together and cutting them out. So now Im ready to go and buy some fabric, but I really cant decided what colour or fabric I want to go for (hmmm). Anyway I best hurry up and decide as we only have 2 WEEKS to make this garment.. I MEAN 2 WEEKS!! As after the 2 weeks are up we are then going to photograph and shoot/style the garment ready to be published online and entered into the live brief.

oxo

Inspiration on the stand- 3

Some on Maison Martin Margielas deconstruction collection

In a couple of posts back I mentioned deconstruction and how looking at Victoria buildings and there texture inspired me onto deconstruction. I have also looked at Maison Martin Margiela's work to gather together some inspiration as his work is very over sized and used deconstruction. So today i decided to experiment, I got my hands on a plain white shirt (the same as the one above) and off I started unpicking it. once it was back its originally pattern pieces I began to mess about and place it on the stand creating different shapes and different garments, I really enjoy doing this task as you didst know what to expect or have any idea what the outcome would be like. I would like to continue experimenting with this method. 

My favourite

I like the way the material drapes on this one

oxo

Pattern cutting- 5

Attaching the sleeve- Continued

Making sure the sleeve piece is placed and pinned in correctly 

A stitch is needed in the middle of the two loose(seen in previous post)

When done, the loose tacking needs to be unpicked and the top of the sleeve needs to be over locked

 Heres what an attached sleeve looks like

Attaching sides together

Both sides need to be alined together making sure both under arms are join together as this is a vital part of the procedure! When stitching you must make sure the pleat is laying flat down otherwise it will create bulk which is not what we want. The stitch needs to be a 1cm seam allowance all the way along and across the sleeve. 

Next step after the 1cm seam allowance is to over lock the sides

Skirt

When taking the pattern piece off my material I faced a problem of my material not matching up which meant I needed to solve the problem by realigning the fabric and the pattern piece and cutting away any access fabric

Pleats

To add the pleats you need to look at your draft of the pattern to find out which way the pleats were folded and join the notches together and place a pin in to hold it in place, you then need to a 0.5cm stitch from the top across the pleats to hold them in place.

Attaching the skirt

Attaching the skirt is easier than it looks! You have to join the two seams together making sure it isn't the zip seam like I did the first time! And pin the fabric to the dress and stitch a 1cm seam all the way around.

Dress so far...

Im happy I chose to add pleats on the back as well as it gives the dress more volume and makes it have more detail which I think works well.

But I think if I was to revisit this dress when patterning I would make the dress pieces smaller so that it was shorter as I think the length is a little long. I think I would also reconsider the size of the pockets as they are ridiculously small and I would like them to be more of a feature. 

Putting a heam on the sleeve

Because my fabric was fraying a lot I had to fold my fabric over 1cm x2 and iron it all the way around on both sides

Then on the inside of the sleeve I had to get close as possible to the edge of the seam and stitch all the way around- to do this you have to go slowly.. trust me!

And a completed sleeve! Now all that is left is the facing and we are completed finally! I feel like I have been saying that for weeks haha.

oxo